“The aim is to create premium category based on terroir,” István Szepsy
If we’re talking about premium quality, then why is the top category not a selection based on the barrel?
Theoretically we could talk about the second barrel of Nyúlászó, but I believe that in the wine world quality linked to place is stronger. The terroir can be visited, experienced: we can crumble the soil between our fingers, stroke the vines. The significance of individuality is enormous, but it is important to note that several types of uniqueness can exist alongside one another.
How can we define the parcel?
It is a unit within the dűlő (vineyards) that gives the wine a unique character thanks to its own characteristics. These include height above sea level, the angle of the slope, the type and structure of the ground, the age and cultivation method of the vines, as well as the grape clone, for example kisfürtű (“small bunch”) Furmint.
The names of these wines carray the last two numbers of the given parcel’s land registry number in the same size lettering as the name of the dűlő. This is why it is important that the land registry number does not cross over the boundary of the given parcel.
What can we know about the 2013 Szepsy Nyúlászó 58 Furmint?
The area in question bears the land registry number 2258, thus the wine received the name 58. Parcel 58 was replanted in the 1920s, and we have replaced vines where necessary. Looser “madárkás” bunches are typical here.
The soil here is the thinest of all our dűlő and the roots reach down through seven layers of rock, stretching through cracks right down to 7.5 m to the horizontal lava layer. The grapes harvested here matured in second-fill oak barrels.
Why did you offer wine from the Nyúlászó 58 parcel at the wine auction?
I love all our dűlő, but for several reason Nyúlászó is a particular favourite. For one, I spend most of my time here as we cross it to reach many of our other vineyards. Secondly I carried out the bunch selection here. As several types of Furmint clone grow here, it is an especially difficult task.
Generally bunches are small and a maximum of 120 g per vine is selected for the wine. They are loose and, if there had been side shoots, we have removed them earlier. We do our utmost in the vineyards so the quality cannot be raised significantly. Our task is to convey the unique, marked and mineral character that stems from the terroir.
What can you tell us about the buyer?
A passionate wine collector and old friend bought the wine and will give it as presents. The significance is that we leapt from 1.5 million Hungarian forints (3 300 EUR) to 8 million (26 300 Eur) this year. It gives hope that there are actually breakthrough points, as this price proves. It is not possible to raise prestige while we are discussing price. This auction offered a great opportunity for the market to react to unqiue quality offered by a terroir. And I believe something has begun.
The whole article (in Hungarian) is here.
